Varanasi Part I on Film

Hi Film Friends! A lot has changed since the last blogpost. World War 3 almost started, Kobe passed away and now there’s a pandemic happening. Well, with the down time that came with job delays and cancellations, I took the time to embark on some personal projects. One of it was to photograph artists and designers around our region. Check that out here: https://www.joel-chua.com/art-vignettes-index. I’m having some trouble naming this project, so if you have any suggestions, do let me know! I also told myself to start writing more blogposts, so here I am. Reminiscing on simpler and safer times.

Waking up to the rhythm of the train chugging along the railway, Jaegen and I found ourselves in a drastically different landscape from the night before. The landscape was less dense with the occasional town every half an hour or so. After watching the world pass by for awhile, I decided to get out of bed and explore the other carriages and people watch. It was a really interesting scene and people were generally welcoming albeit a little curious.

We sat in the train for another hour or so before pulling up into Mughal Sarai Junction, our destination. It was a little bit outside of Varanasi so we had to take a Tuk Tuk into town. We took some time to take photos around the station as it was the first Indian train station we were experiencing in the daytime.

What the interior of the trains looked like.

Indian hand painted signs! I love them. What an art form.

After orientating ourselves, we managed to find a Tuk Tuk that would take us into Varanasi. Along the way, the driver stopped and picked up a few other passengers. Pretty soon, there were people hanging out of our tiny motor vehicle. Because of the detours, it took us nearly 30 mins to get to our hostel. Bunkedup Hostel was our accommodation of choice while in Varanasi. It was a nice hostel with good ratings housed in a quaint little building in the middle of the old quarters of town. The staff were also tremendously helpful during our time there. The hostel even has a rooftop where breakfast was provided everyday and where guests can hang out till the night time, (A common occurrence during our stay there.) enjoying the cool air and good views. Good vibes generally.

While we couldn’t check in yet, the kind people at the reception helped us put our bags in storage while Jaegen and I ventured around the vicinity searching for a tasty meal to satiate our grumbling stomachs. We found a cafe with internet and decent food so we plopped ourselves there for a few hours. Jaegen had some work to do while I was busy posting instastories (Priorities. Am I right?). Anyway, after leaving the cafe, we decided to check out the main Ghat (A flight of steps leading down to a river.). It was interesting to say the least. Cows just chilling and someone using a giant hose to wash the streets.

Photos up till now were shot on the Contax T2 with Agfa Vista 400. Developed and scanned by Photocity Lab in Bangkok, Thailand.

We decided to check out the sunset from our hostel’s rooftop so we slowly made our way back. To our surprise, there were already some guests up there enjoying the free chai provided by the hostel. Chai Time. We found a comfy spot and settled down, watching life unfold by the river.

As the minarets of the mosques scattered around Varanasi roared to life with the call to prayer, an atmosphere of peace and quiet fell across the town. At the same time, the sun was making its descent in the distance. It was a nice moment and it made me wonder why I don’t see more sunsets back in Singapore. As it got darker, we retired back into our rooms and rested up for a full day of exploring the next day.

In the morning, we were greeted with a surprise from some familiar faces. Millie and Brian whom we met in Delhi have arrived in Varanasi and they were staying in the same hostel as us! It was nice to see a familiar face. We got breakfast and caught up on each other’s adventures. Millie and Brian also introduced us to Tilly from the UK, Nicola from Italy and Olivier from Switzerland. Yay to new friends! Everyone was staying in the same hostel except Tilly who was stay just a few blocks away.

We hung out for a bit, buying some local souvenirs and tunics for us to wear. Millie even took over a shop for a bit as the shop owner was busy tending to us. She actually made a sale and the owner told her to keep the money. Haha. While talking, we found out that all of us wanted to hire a boat to take us on the Ganges River and so decided to book one through our hostel.

In the evening, we met our boatman, Salman. At first, I expected the boat to be powered by a motor but was surprised to find out that Salman would be the one rowing us along the river. I had my doubts. After all, there was seven of us and he was the only one paddling. But Salman soon put our doubts to rest when he manoeuvred us out from the river bank effortlessly. We were in the hands of an experienced boatman.

We first made our way down river, checking out the different Ghats and watching life unfurl along the river from a different perspective. That was when Nicola and Tilly took out their cameras. They were fellow film shooters! Film friends! Nicola was shooting with a Canonet and Tilly was shooting with a Canon AE1.

Salman rowing the seven of us along the Ganges River with ease.

All along the Ganges River, scenes like this are common. Kids playing in the river, laundry being washed right beside them.

It’s not uncommon to see boats filled to the brim.

Once the sky started getting darker, we made our way to Dashashwamedh Ghat, the main Ghat where the Ganga Aarti is performed every evening. The Aarti is a devotional ritual that uses dance and fire as offering. Many people from all around India and around the world come to observe this holy ritual. It is also very popular to get an alternative view from a boat in the river.

As we neared the Dashashwamedh Ghat, we had a bit of spare time. So Salman brought us to witness a cremation just over in the next Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat. Many Hindus believe that being cremated in Varanasi and having their ashes scattered into the Ganges would end their reincarnation cycle and they would attain Nirvana. As it turns out, death is a huge part of Varanasi. In fact, it is the city’s main economy. Many Hindus come to Varanasi to live out their final days, waiting for a chance to achieve Nirvana.

We sat in the boat, slowly swaying from side to side, watching a cremation take place. It’s always a somber thing, watching a flame engulfing flesh. Everyone was quiet throughout the whole process, perhaps falling into a deep contemplation on the fragility of life or perhaps facing their own views on mortality. Salman broke our trance like gaze and signalled that it was time for us to head over to the main Ghat for the Aarti.

Photos up till now were shot on the Contax T2 with Agfa Vista 400. Developed and scanned by Photocity Lab in Bangkok, Thailand.

We arrived just in time as the other boats were streaming in, trying to find a prime location to observe the Aarti. Salman parked us in a pretty good spot and we all just sat back and waited for the ritual to happen. If you have time, I implore you to please book a boat and experience the Aarti from the river. It was certainly an out of the world experience, witnessing a spiritual ritual take place, being surrounded by your friends and by boats full of devotees from all around the world. However I must say, I have read that the Aartis in Varanasi are highly choreographed and may come off as theatrical to some but never having experience other Aartis, I can’t say for sure. But it is definitely worth it to experience at least one Aarti in your lifetime.

Towards the end of the ceremony, Salman lit up the flower offerings we bought earlier and handed them out. He chanted a blessing while we slowly let the offering float away into the darkness, lighting it up like little fireflies in the night sky. Around us, many others were doing the same and some were even singing songs and dancing in passing boats.

Anyway, pardon all the upcoming grainy photos. Film doesn’t perform too well in low light without a tripod.

This photograph really doesn’t do it justice. It was magical.

Photos up till now were shot on the Contax T2 with Fuji Natura 1600. Developed and scanned by Photocity Lab in Bangkok, Thailand.

At the end of the ride, we paid and thanked Salman for his hard work and amazing experience. The night was still young however, so we decided to get a few cans of beer and to head up the rooftop. The night went on with sharing, singing and a bit of drunk dancing. It was in the wee hours of the morning before we decided to retire for the night, looking forward to another day of exploring.

And that brings me to the end of this blogpost. Hope you’ve enjoyed the photos and writing! Are you inspired to visit Varanasi? Let me know below. Till the next entry, keep shooting film friends!